Category: Trip reports

Ken Burton

The paddlers at Lancelin: Steve, Ewen, Paul, Rado, Ken, Dave and Rob.  Photo Pel Turner.

Dave Oakley, 2 hours into the paddle on Day 1. Photo John Radovich.

Ewen coming in to land at Camp 1. Photo John Radovich.

Pel and Rob relax and share a few stories at Camp 1. Notice all mod cons: BBQ and ironing board. Photo John Radovich.

Short break on Day 2 – Rado. Photo John Radovich.

Ewen and Ken sample Ewen’s culinary delights. Photo John Radovich.

In formation at Cervantes. Photo John Radovich.

The aim of this trip was to kayak from Lancelin to Cervantes over the CHOGM weekend, a distance of 66km.

Six paddlers decided to complete the trip – John Radovich, Dave Oakley, Paul Cooper, Rob MacCracken, Ewen MacGregor and Ken Burton. The paddlers were provided with land-based support by Pel Turner up until Saturday morning and Steve Foreman from start to finish. The 4 Wheel drive support was awesome and thanks are extended to Pel and Steve.

Paul, Ewen and Ken arrived at the Lancelin Caravan Park on Thursday night and after setting up camp on the road verge retired to the local hotel – a mere 10 minute walk according to the caravan park owner – this guy had no idea of distance or time and after a 40 minute walk our thirsts were raging! Coopers on tap was the order of the night! After a few pints and a reasonable meal we walked back to the camp at around 2200 hours and hit the sack.

Up at 0530 the next morning (Friday) the 3 of us showered and waited for the others to arrive. The initial idea from John was to complete the car shuffle and be on the water at 1000 but this stretched out to 1120 and by then a serious wind was up and blowing hard from the southwest. John delivered his briefing in a clear and succinct manner, issued each paddler with a map and safety kit and then Dave outlined the Club’s “Shark Sighting Policy”. A few comments such as ‘slowest paddler gets eaten’ and ‘if you see a shark every man for himself’ rang out across the group!

We set off at a leisurely pace heading to Wedge Island, a distance of 26km. The following sea was impressive and most of us spent the hours ‘broaching’ and trying to keep in a straight line. The wind really picked up after the first break on a nice beach adjacent to Narrow Neck Reef. KB decided to use his sail and after breaking through a small surf break we were off towards Wedge Island. The seas were very rough and with the wind made paddling as a ‘group’ quite difficult. We persevered and pulled into a very nice campsite selected by Pel and Steve. The campsite was 3km short of Wedge but as it looked so inviting and was well protected the choice was a good one! We made camp at 1600 hours and shortly after getting the tents up and the boats stowed Steve and Pel had a great BBQ going and we had cheese and bickies and a quiet drink.  Most paddlers went to their tents around 2100 with the call to be on the water at 0800 the next day.

Paul and Rado ready to launch at Wedge. Photo Pel Turner.

We woke to a nice offshore breeze and paddled the 3km to Wedge Island and surfed some nice little waves over the bank at Wedge and into a beautiful bay. We had a few stops while the offshore breeze was blowing and enjoyed the calm water and the inshore reefs until about 1000 when the wind started to change and by 1100 had picked up to a 20-25 knot southwester.

The paddlers were amazed at the “Mad Max” type efforts by 4 wheel drivers, motorbikes and even a 2WD Commodore and Falcon (both most likely were stolen) doing over 100kph along the beach with the Ranger chasing them with his yellow light flashing with no hope of catching them. It was like another world watching these idiots using the beach in this way!

As we got closer to Hangover Reef Steve decided to find a landing spot for lunch. The group, who at this stage were tending to go outside the breaking waves made a decision to go through a small section of lumpy but non-breaking swells to get access to the beach. Ewen and Ken were not keen on going inside and suggested the group go outside and around the reef and then into the site. John decided that the group would go inside and so the first 4 paddlers set off in single file watching the incoming waves and after a bit of manoeuvring they all made ‘safe ground’.

Ewen and Ken started coming in on the same line when suddenly the gap in the non-breaking wave section closed out and Ken had to surf off the first wave and then Ewen and he had to paddle like maniacs to get over another monster that was foaming at the top – they got over that one and realized they were in the middle of the ‘kill zone’ because another monster was starting to peak and threaten to break on their heads. Ken was screaming and Ewen was just saying ‘paddle harder’. They got over the 4th and final monster and into manageable water and then skirted around the outside of the reef whilst keeping an eye on the inside paddlers. After a few kilometres we met up and exchanged our horror stories with embellishments. The learning point here is that conditions can change in an instant and all paddlers have to be prepared to make life saving changes very quickly.

After this epic we continued paddling towards the Grey Shacks. Putting the tents up just north of Grey was very hard and most people needed assistance – the wind was so strong that we and the boats were covered in sand. We settled around Steve’s 4 Wheel Drive but even the car offered little protection from the sand and the wind. We eventually found a ‘wind-free’ zone where we started cooking the evening meal.

We awoke on the Sunday morning to a wind that was still quite strong but coming from the south so at 0810 we headed to Cervantes and stayed inside the reef system for the first hour and a half. A few seals, a school of mulloway and a small reef shark were the highlights of the morning. We landed for morning tea and caught up with Steve once again. The wind had died off a little but was still 12-15 knots with a following sea. Ken was spinning a lure and managed to catch a nice bull herring but missed two big hook ups on serious fish. The group paddled in an arrow head formation and kept together well on this day as we headed towards Cervantes. We arrived at Cervantes and Steve was waiting on the beach with a brew going – nothing is too much trouble for Steve!

• Great camaraderie amongst the group
• Rado locking his keys in the Saab at the start of the trip
• Rado calling the RAC and arriving late for lunch at the Cervantes pub
• Steve and Pel’s unselfish support work – thanks guys you did a magnificent job and made the paddle an enjoyable and easy one
• Ewen’s cooking and in particular the Fresh Rice Noodles and Vegetable and Sausage Curry
• Dave’s initiation of his new Greenlander “T” complete with a couple of nice rolls
• Paul’s fast paddling in his Arctic Raider which is impossibly fast both downwind and on the waves
• Ken and Ewen riding out some serious ‘monster waves’ in the ‘Killing Zone’
• Rob telling some memorable stories that cannot be repeated in print but were enjoyed by all!

After packing up the gear and getting organised we all retired to the Tavern for a well earned lunch and some great story telling about this memorable trip.

By Mark Alderson

Crossing to Boullanger Island – photo Neesha Copley.

Saturday dawned overcast and cool for the first time in about a month as I ate a little breakfast, barrelled into the car and turned towards Jurien at 5.30am. As I drove through the rain I wondered how this might influence the trip, but needn’t have worried as it turned out.

After arriving at Jurien harbour and driving around the car park for five minutes I found the group of paddlers eventually. I was greeted by a much larger group than I had originally thought with 13 paddlers present on the beach loading gear and exchanging banter at the start of the trip.

Steve (head honcho – trip leader) briefed us on the day ahead and we nosed our way out of the Jurien marina at about 9.  Before rounding the breakwater we bunched up for a final word and it was during this discussion that Jo was squeezed up against the rocks and had a little swim, which she was not too pleased about – at least it would have woken her up for the start of the day.

Having resolved this little deviation we rounded the harbour wall and headed southwest towards Boullanger Island – a crossing of about 5km. This was straight into the fresh Southwester that was blowing and before too long we were all woken up with salt spray as the boats dived in and out of the oncoming waves.  The sight from the marina is a very inviting one for sea kayakers with a number of islands visible on the horizon as possible landing points.

The crossing itself was pretty hard going straight into the breeze. It was here that I commented on one of the design faults of my homemade boat. The front hatch is recessed too deeply into the deck causing any water washing over it to be funnelled up over the deck lines into the face of the occupant. Next boat things will be different.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″][vc_column_text]

Boullanger Island – photo Judy Blight.

Ben with sea lions at Essex Rocks – photo Neesha Copley.

Essex Rocks – photo Neesha Copley.

Jo with sea lions at Essex Rocks – photo Neesha Copley.

Sea lions at Essex Rocks – photo Neesha Copley.

Essex Rocks – photo Neesha Copley.

Paddling back to the coast here was pretty hard going too as the waves were completely sideways. Some without rudders found it hard work as did some with, and I was glad I had one during this crossing. Here we were also treated to a glimpse of that most mythic of creatures, the flying fish, all silver-blue as it jumped from a wave and then flew in an arc in front of us.

We landed mid-afternoon at Booka camp and then poked around for a tent site. Jackie, Paul and Ian headed home at this point, only staying with us for the day. After setting up we convened under the shady trees for coffee and philosophy. We were treated to some interesting points of view from Rob, Ben, and Steve and thoroughly enjoyed the afternoon.

This soon turned into a dinner, with Les’s curried condensed milk sauce being an eye opener to all. Sunset was marvellous and I headed off to bed early – having had a late night packing. Sleep was a little interrupted by the duff duff music of some 4WD’s that were close by fishing – why they would need the music in such a great spot is still a mystery.

Next day I was up at 6 for a spot of fishing and a lot of the other paddlers were stirring also. I did manage to get some breakfast and joined a few others on the beach to do a little cooking. At about 8 most were ready to be off, so with a bit of hurried packing I was there by the official start time of 8.30. Rob was also ready by 8.30 according to his watch… apparently not the best of morning persons.

Wolfgang decided to head back to Jurien at this point as we were likely to have some stern quartering winds that he was not keen on. The group headed to Boullanger Island and had another look at this beautiful place. We then headed to Favourite Island about 5 or 6km away. The wind was behind us to the side at this stage and did make control more challenging. It was a hard slog to Favourite, picking our way through the reefs and breaking waves occasionally.

The wind was strengthening, and it was decided not to delay at the island. After a quick breather we travelled to North Head with the wind directly behind us and some great surfing was had on the way.

The landing spot at North Head was hairy looking initially as we were confronted by a large reef break barring the beach. After a bit of poking around from Les we found a tame landing site in the end and were off the water by 2. From the height of the headland the breaking waves did not seem anywhere near as foreboding as they had on the water. A pleasant afternoon was spent exploring, swimming and having coffee. A great afternoon tea was organised – the feature of which was Steve’s liquid brie. Evening meals were compared once more – amazing to see differing approaches to my quick food solutions there.

The winds were forecast to pick up the next day so we had the aim of starting at 7. Steve kindly came to wake us all at about 5.40am next morning, which was a bit scary. In the half-light we packed the boats and managed to be on the water at about 6.45. Initially the going was pretty hard, but once we were in the lee of the dunes from the southeaster the water calmed down.

We were back at the Marina at about 9.30 and after packing up we shared a quick brew before heading home. Most of the group headed to the caravan park café for a well-earned breakfast, which apparently went down very well.

The trip all in all was a great experience with a great mix of water conditions and some great scenery.  Thanks to Steve for organizing it all and to everyone for their company.

Two things learned: don’t forget your paddling gloves or the backs of the hands get fried; and bring a chair or get an aching back from sitting on the ground.

Sea lions at Essex Rocks – photo Neesha Copley.

Booka campsite – photo Neesha Copley.

Mark, Neesha and Kevin at North Head.

North Head campsite – photo Neesha Copley.

Story and photographs by Martin Burgoyne

With Thailand a distant memory, and only a few white water trips on the Collie to keep a hand in, the festive season was upon us. It looked like the end of white water paddling for another season.

But then the email came around: Flood warning on the Murchison!  The river was rising, and should be a ‘goer’ in around a week – so be ready to go at short notice!  Having missed out last year I didn’t want to miss out this time, there’s no knowing when it would be paddlable again. Those in the know pointed us to BOM’s Emu Springs river monitoring station, and the graphical display of the river’s state. Those with experience said we wanted a level of 1 – 2 metres, with the river falling. That way the trees, dead kangaroos, cows and other flood debris would be long gone!  It seems that at Moderate and Major flood levels, equal to 6 – 8 metres on the gauging station, the river while BIG is generally washed out and less technical. So while providing a good fast rollercoaster ride there isn’t much to ‘play’ on. With Emu Springs consulted daily it was clear that the river peaked on Boxing Day at just over 6 metres. The printout of the graph was then used to extend the falling line to try and judge when the river would be at its optimum 1 – 2 metre level.  We decided this would be just after New Year.  The call went out, and on New Year’s day ten kayakers headed for Kalbarri.  Our aim was to paddle the gorge the following two days, and then return home.

We met up at Ross Graham Lookout early the following morning and organized the long car shuttle to the half way point at Z Bend.  We had ten in the group, five river runners in ‘creek’ boats, and five play boaters.  Our river runners group was all Murchison virgins.  The play boaters had all done the river several times before and were eager for action. They set off while the car shuttle was being completed, with plans for us all to meet at the first big play wave.

The river is quite wide at the Ross Graham put in, and in places we were paddling through the tops of trees, with our paddles snagging on submerged trees, definitely not a place to go for a swim.  The water was a deep red brown color due to the amount of silt it was carrying.  This makes reading the ‘white’ water much more difficult, as the changes in color one expects with normal river water is lost in the more uniform red foam.

Never knowing what was around the bend we paddled with caution.  The term ‘dinosaur paddler’ comes into play on rivers like this.  You see a horizon line in front of you, obviously a drop, and so paddle slowly towards it extending your neck as much as you can to try and see what’s over the edge.  If you can’t see or don’t like what you see then it’s a quick sprint for the bank.  A true dinosaur paddler – ‘long neck and no brain’ just extends their neck and paddles straight over the lip!  Having paddled a few drops on sight and liking what we saw, we eventually caught up with the play boaters.  They were on the left bank inspecting a long wave train rapid – Serpents Tail, or more to the point, inspecting the potential of the big play waves in the middle, and the consequences of a swim if you got it wrong.  It all looked good and so we spent some time surfing the waves and running the big wave train down the middle.  As we river runners became bored we decided to leave the play boaters and headed off down. We were now on our own as none of us had paddled this river before.  We knew the take out was at Z bend on river left, and that there were a few rapids we might want to inspect on the way. But that was all the knowledge we had, so some critical decisions would be needed.  We ran quite a few big drops on sight, without the need to stop and inspect.  Our confidence was growing.  We came round one corner and there was a river wide horizon line, I paddled closer and closer, neck extended but still couldn’t see the bottom, or any spray or wave peaks that would indicate the features. So a quick signal to exit river left, and we all PLF’d to the bank for a closer Iook.

Everything funneled into a narrow shoot down the middle, with some big exploding waves at the bottom followed by a shallow gorge below.  The shoot was OK but the waves looked menacing, and the shallow gorge below had sheer rock walls that were sure to be undercut, so not the place for a swim.  Yvonne decided to walk.  Jason our kiwi extreme boater went first and made it look easy.  I followed and being conscious of the exploding waves at the bottom of the shoot went too far right and punched through into a micro eddy.  But there was no way I was going to break back into the main flow through the exploding waves, so I decided to exit and put back in at the eddy below.  But it gave me the chance to video Rob’s run.  He made it through the exploding waves only to be knocked over below, after a couple of attempts to roll he was swimming!  Fortunately he stayed down the middle avoiding the undercut walls of the shallow gorge.  Yvonne and Jason fished him out, and it was now my turn to get back into the main flow and join them below.  Getting into my boat in the surging eddy suggested that exiting would be far more difficult than the entry. Thankfully I managed to punch through the eddy line on the third attempt and ran the main flow to the rest of the team waiting below. This had been Sharks Tooth Rapid.

Together again we continued down the river, and through some of the classic sandstone gorges that the Murchison is famous for.   There were plenty of rapids to keep us entertained, but none of them had us sprinting to the bank for a closer look.  Glenn who had recently paddled some big volume water in Nepal only a few months before, was full of confidence and really enjoying the river and being out in front.

As the gorge narrowed and the walls closed in, another horizon line appeared.  Hmmm nothing was visible immediately below and there were no tell-tail signs of wave spikes to indicate a wave train.  It seemed to suggest a steep drop.  So I started to head for the bank for a look.  However Glenn didn’t follow me but kept paddling towards the horizon.  Over he went and disappeared.  It seemed an age before I caught a glimpse of him way over on the left, paddling hard.  He was OK but must have had an encounter with a stopper which had held him up.  Jason followed slightly more to the right of centre, and over the horizon he went.  I could just see the top of his helmet which momentarily stopped, and then he was his away.  I turned to Rob and Yvonne and yelled that there must be a stopper below the horizon and they needed to paddle hard.  Over I went and sure enough there was a big river wide stopper, but following Jason’s line I managed to find the break in the stopper and punched through easily.  As I turned to watch the others I was knocked over by a big breaking wave.  Thankfully I rolled up, only to be knocked over again.  But my roll was working, and I was up again and making for the slack water below where Glenn and Jason where waiting.  Rob and a wide eyed Yvonne joined us.  We exchanged stories, and agreed that perhaps we should have looked at it!  It turned out that this was Z bend rapid, and the playboat boys, who knew the river, had all got out above, and looked at it from the bank.  They decided that a walk was the safest route down.

Being on a high from our success we continued down river and turned the corner into the next gorge.  There was a whistle blast from Rob and Yvonne who were at the back, and as I tuned to see what the problem was I could see the Z bend look out high above the river behind them.  Bugger – we had gone too far, and unfortunately we had run one more rapid which meant we couldn’t paddle back.  Rob and Yvonne managed to get to the bank, while the three of us scoured the sheer sandstone walls for a possible get out.  There was one small ledge which we decided was the only option.  We got our boats onto the small ledge and then had a grade 11 rock climb up to the main half way ledge of the gorge.  Fortunately the rock was dry and once on the ledge I lowered my throw rope to bring up Glenn.  Jason stayed at the bottom and tied the kayaks on, while Glenn and I hauled them up to the safety of our ledge.

We left the kayaks on the ledge, climbed the easy gully and made our way back to the others.  We could see the playboat boys on the bank further up the gorge directly below the Z bend look out.  I tried to make a mental picture of the spot for next time, though I think Z bend rapid will be enough of a signal for future trips.  It was a steep and sweaty trek back to the cars, enough to make us decide a hotel bed a shower and a good meal was what we needed, rather than more mozzie infested camping.

Day two and we were back at the Z bend look out, but this time it was a shorter car shuttle to Natures Window, so we had a shorter wait for the drivers.  Another trek down into the gorge and after some more nifty rope work we had our kayaks back on the small ledge that we escaped to the day before. With everyone on the water we were ready to roll.   This time we paddled as a group. After the excitement of the first day we were getting used to the volume of the water and its chocolate brown color.  We ran everything on sight until another tell-tale horizon line grabbed our attention. The playboat boys said it was Killer Fang Falls.  A quick bank inspection showed us the line between the fangs, with some nasty consequences if you went too far right at the bottom.  But we all made it down safely.  More tight gorges, a pleasant lunch stop, but no major rapids to slow progress.  There were a few play waves that provided entertainment, and one excellent wave train that provide some steep surf waves with friendly eddies to enable you to paddle back upstream and try them again. The playboat boys were in heaven!

Mindful that we still had the notorious walk out to Natures Window and the car park, with heavy creek boats on our shoulders, our select team pressed on.  The gorge started to open out and high up on river left we could eventually see Natures Window.  Hmm – this was going to hurt!   First we had calf deep mud, then a couple of centimetres of greasy oozing mud, and then the steep ledged rock slope up to the window.  Time for congratulations and a photo call.  By the time we were ready for the one, or was it a two kilometre walk to the car park, the playboat boys had joined us.  Being young and fit and with play boats weighing around 10 kilos less than ours they disappeared up the track.  The final carry up the steps to the car park was too much; I dropped the boat a sat on it gasping.  But a passing tourist took pity grabbed the end of my boat and helped me to the top.  Job done![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″][vc_column_text]

Watch out for trees.

Kayak hauling.

The Creek Boaters.

 The Gorge.

No-name rapid.

Looking back to Z Bend.

Get out of that!

Lunch stop, day 2.

Surfer’s heaven.

Martin on the last surf wave.

Story and photographs by Martin Burgoyne

Following a poor winter in terms of rain and river levels, a few of the club’s ‘white water warriors’, or should that be geriatric warriors, were eager for some action.

WA doesn’t have too much white water that you can count on.  There’s the Avon, an overrated drain, and a magnet for wana-be marathon boaters.  The Collie, which at least has some decent rapids, is worth the drive, but the level depends if the cows down around Harvey are feeling thirsty enough for there to be a water release from Wellington dam.  There’s the Murray, now that’s a decent river, easy above the infamous Boy Scouts spout, entertaining in its middle section, and in its lower race down the scarp to Pinjarra, it’s a classic piece of white water, with enough technicality to test any white water junkie.  There’s also the Blackwood, well at least it has some moving water sections, though hardly white water.  There’s the Donnelly, an esoteric gem, that’s rarely paddled, and then getting to the put in through the brambles is a good grade 5 before you even start to paddle. The Frankland, hmmm, in flood it’s challenging and well worth a look, but watch out for the very large Karri trees across the river. The Pallinup, somewhere between Albany and Esperance, is supposed to be good if a little short – it’s still on my list of things to do.

Then there’s the Murchison!  It’s spectacular sandstone gorges are a real tourist draw, with spectacular walks along the dry river bed, but when the occasional summer cyclone fills these to capacity, it provides WA’s biggest white water run.

So with poor winter rains, I only managed one lower Murray trip last year, compared to the dozen or so in the previous year.  In need of an adrenalin fix a trip to Thailand was suggested.  A friend had been the previous year and enjoyed a few days white water paddling with a company based close to Chiang Mai.  He reported good grade 3/4 water, a pleasant ‘jungle’ camp, good equipment and a safety conscious set of guides.  So plans were made for a white water fix.  Al Hale, Rod Coogan, Dave Oakley and myself decided to give ‘Siam Rivers’ a try.

We booked four days on the Mae Taeng River, based out of their camp about an hours drive north of Chiang Mai, and added a trip on the more isolated Nam Wa River in the far north east of the country on the boarder with Laos.  Our two week trip would be rounded off with some down hill mountain biking.

The week before we were due to leave for Thailand, the news was full of tales of severe flooding in central Thailand, oh dear, what had we let ourselves in for? Eager to practice my roll in readiness for the trip, I managed to split my eyebrow on the edge of our pool resulting in 9 stitches, which fortunately came out the day before we flew out.   Meanwhile Dave had arrived in Chiang Mai, and his first email said that Chiang Mai was flooded.  Al arrived next, and his emails said that Siam Rivers had reported that they had just lost two kayaks on the river due to the high water, and some over confident American paddlers!  What were we letting ourselves in for?

Rod and I flew out together on Air Asia.  An additional charge for sporting equipment, levied on our paddles had me fuming at Perth airport, but to no avail.  We just called them ‘umbrellas’ on the flight home, and got through OK. Nook our guide, picked us up at Chiang Mia airport and having collected Dave and Al, we drove straight to Siam Rivers camp on the Mae Taeng.   The drive up the heavily rutted road to the camp in an ancient combi-van, with no 4×4 was interesting, who needs big tyres and lots of ground clearance!  As we drove up the valley Nook suggested that we took the opportunity to look at the main rapids. A good move!! While not in flood the river was certainly high, and the rapids we inspected looked particularly ugly.  They were long and technical, certainly grade 4+, and with very little space between the main features to recover bits, pieces, bodies or your breath!  I think the others were pleased when I said it looked too much for me!  But Nook assured us that while this was the difficult middle section, the top section just below camp was an easier grade 3, with fast water, a few technical moves, some long catching pools, and plenty of time to get out before the middle section that we had seen!

Once settled into camp and with kayaks sorted out from the range of battered specimens that they had, we paddled the top section of the Mae Taeng. It was certainly bigger than most things in WA, and with a few meaty rapids to keep us on our toes, it provided us with good paddling and few swims over the next few days.  We decided to raft the middle section with Siam’s guides, and were thankful we were in rafts rather than kayaks, as we watched their safety kayakers cruise down it with ease.  But then they were half our age and did paddle it twice a day at least!  The middle section had plenty of sticky pour-overs, some tight technical lines, and a distinct lack of eddies in which to catch your breath.  However, having run it in the rafts, it seemed that the last rapid of this middle section was a possibility for the geriatric worriers, if we could just keep to the correct line!

So on the last day before we left for the Nam Wa, we decided to give it a go.  We managed a short warm up paddle to the top of the rapid before giving it a quick inspection.  Spray skirts on and away we went.  Straight down the middle, avoiding the boulder garden on river left, a few power strokes to punch the stopper at the bottom, angle the kayak to river left as you punch the stopper to ensure you are lined up for the final race down the steps on the left, and that was it!  It was an exciting run, and a more exciting swim for those intent on inspecting the river bed, and bruising their anatomy!  But Siam’s safety boys were there with throw bags, so we all got to the bottom safely, if a little battered!

Next day we had a long drive to the regional capital of the Northern Province at Nam.  An overnight hotel and then we were on our way again, getting to the Nam Wa river around lunch time. Our small expedition included two rafts, Nook and two more guides from Siam Rivers, and four more ‘sub-contracted’ guides from a rafting company in Nam.  Seven of them, and four of us – a good ratio!  One raft carried all the gear, food and camping equipment, while the other was available in case we decided to raft rather than kayak.

As we were almost on Thailand’s northern border with Laos it seemed that the monsoon rains which had flooded central Thailand, and given us a fright, had not reached that far inland.  Our river was at its usual autumn level, and quite clear after the murky muddy waters in the Mae Taeng.  We had three days on the river to look forward to. Nook suggested that it would be around grade 3+ with the occasional grade 4 that we might want to look at.

We started after lunch on the first day, and enjoyed the pristine jungle that the Nam Wa flowed through.  We didn’t see any wildlife, but the swarms and variety of butterflies were amazing.  All the rapids on the first day were ‘read and run’ which didn’t require us to get out of our kayaks.  At every horizon line we paddled carefully forward, always ready for a sprint to the bank if we didn’t like what we saw.  But everything was OK, and though it did result in a few rolls and swims, there was always a long pool at the bottom for us to gather up our bits and pieces.

Our first night’s camp was on the east, Laos’s side of the river.  The rafting company from Nam had developed a rustic standing camp, complete with a benched eating area, a thatched camp kitchen with running water, some level ground on which to pitch tents, and three dunnies – quite impressive for the middle of nowhere!  Our guides prepared supper while we erected tents, sorted sleeping bags, and hung our wet paddling gear out to dry.

Day 2
The guides where up early and had breakfast prepared while we packed our tents and gear.  Nook said it was a 25 km day with some big rapids that we would be inspecting. The water was clear and so was easy to read, which was good as there where lots of grade 2/3 rapids that kept us entertained.  None required any inspection, and we were able to creep up on them, scan the rapid from our kayaks and then hope we had sorted the best route down.  There were a few rolls and swims but all was going well.  The jungle was particularly lush and thick on the left bank, while on the right there was the occasional trace of human tracks.

We eventually came to the first rapid that Nook and the boys said we needed to inspect.  It was formed where a particularly large side stream entered and which at some time had flooded and deposited large boulders across the river.  The rapid was a one drop wonder, and took the form of a 2 metre drop over a boulder ledge into a river-wide stopper, which fortunately had a tongue in the middle. Our guides ran it and made it look easy – don’t they always.  I ran it and decided yes it was easy, but the others declined to try.  A little further and we had the second rapid to inspect.  Formed by a similar boulder garden dumped by a side stream, it was more technical than the first and probably grade 4.  It required some manoeuvering to weave around boulders and holes, but there was a good run out at the bottom.  The guides did their stuff, and I ran it and had a roll at the bottom.  But the roll worked – my first serious roll, since my out of boat experiences in New Zealand back in February.  So I was pleased.

At our lunch stop, we watched our guides turning over every stone by the river looking for some sort of insect larvae.  Evidently they were to be used as fish bait once we reached camp.  We had a short stop in the afternoon to enable the guides to go fishing up a side stream, while one stayed behind and searched for bamboo grubs!  Again to be used as fishing bait!

A few more read and run rapids and we reached camp two after a long day on the river.  It was another remarkable site, with camp kitchen, dining areas complete with tables and benches and shade, level map sites and this time four dunnies!.  The guides went fishing, and we were amazed at the size of the carp that the insect larvae had attracted to their lines.  Dinner started with the small fish that the boys had caught that afternoon; the big monster was for them.

I retired early, a mixture of sun and dehydration.  Dave and Rod decided to sleep out on the dining tables under the thatched roofs. It seemed a good idea. There had been a heavy dew the night before and we had woken to damp sleeping bags, but I was too tired to worry tonight!

Day 3 was supposed to have a couple more rapids worthy of inspection but they all looked OK from the top and we ran everything on sight.  The river opened out, the jungle-clad banks receded, and we were in farming land. A streamer stretched high across the river marked the approach of the take out.  More guides for Nam were there to greet us with picnic lunches and bottles of Coke!  It was all over.

We had a two day drive back to Chiang Mai to look forward to, but this time we were treated to the best hotel in Nam for our overnighter, and a sumptuous banquet with our guides on the banks on the Nam River.  It had been a great trip and I had been surprised at the quality of the rivers we had paddled and the professional approach that Nook and his guides had displayed.

Back in Chiang Mia we had three days of the most memorable down hill mountain biking or more correctly jungle biking to round off the trip, but that’s another story!

Both Dave and Rod contracted Dengue Fever, or a close cousin, possibly as a result of their night on the dining table.  While Dave ended up in Chiang Mai hospital, far from home, Rod was more fortunate and ended up in Mandurah hospital.

Born-again bikers.

Mae Taeng base camp.

It rained!

Mae Taeng River.

 The first of the Nam Wa drops.

First camp on the Nam Wa River.

A small moth.

Nam Wa grade 2-3 rapids.

Al Hale.

Rod Coogan.

Dave Oakley.

Nam Wa rapids.

The team.

Thai Wat.

Sue Harrington (All photos by Sue unless otherwise indicated)

Sea kayakers will know that overnight ‘expedition’ paddles have a number of distinctions from our more usual day paddles. The planning, preparations and packing are much more involved, not least the provision of three interesting and wholesome meals for every day that you are to be away.

With this in mind, I thought it might be instructive and amusing to document the range of stunning dinner cuisine produced one evening by eleven hardy paddlers resting overnight at Betty’s Beach during a trip off the Albany region.

But before the chefing began, we gathered around the tray of Bob’s ute parked by a rusting beach shack, and snacked on biccies and cheese, washed down with ice cold TEDs, generously proffered by Bob. Time slipped by while amicably yarning about the paddling adventures of the previous days. Photo by Russ Hobbs

Once down to cooking the main dish, the cauldron of choice was predominantly the trusty Trangia stove, to the extent that our club could approach the company for sponsorship! Spurred on by skilled camp chefs, the Trangias fried, boiled and heated the pre-planned ingredients to produce a remarkable array of curious creations as evidenced in the photos:

Rod – savoury rice and tuna (followed by fruit tub and chocolate rice pudding);
Sue and Russ – spicy salami, rice, peas and onion – a reliable camping favourite (photo by Pel Turner);

Pel – tortellini with bacon rice (Pel seemed to go for multicultural surprises);
Adrian (our invited paddler and tour guide from Albany) – satay rice, Canadian pink salmon, peas, corn and capsicum;
Wolfgang – bami goreng in a foam cup (non-Trangia hot water involved in the complex preparation); and

Martin – Indian chickpea curry (packaged and apparently horrible!), followed by fruit cake offered around;

Kevin – curried chicken pasta (‘creamy, full-bodied and delicious, 8/10, he claimed!);

Royd – fresh courgettes, red capsicum, tuna and pasta (with the ingredients separately prepared prior to combining);

Bob – packet dhal and spicy rice, washed down with a good red;

Dave – chunky  stew (brings back memories of KP’s Chum…) and homemade bread.

It would be difficult to dispute that Royd’s was the superior meal, when considering the overall freshness and complexity of ingredients, lengthy cooking time and amount of fuel used, appealing food aromas and level of interest from others.

Lessons learnt from this small survey? Fresh vegies are possible on longer trips, other people’s food can look much better or much worse than your own, and lastly, anything will do when you are hungry enough, especially if you have taken along a cask of reasonable red!

Dirk Hartog Island, July 10-15, 2010  Royd Bussell

Judy, Helen& Kevin sail to Dirk Hartog. Photo Royd Bussell.

Linda& Kevin pass giant Osprey nest. Photo Royd Bussell.

Overlooking South Passage. Kevin, Linda, Helen, Ken and Judy. Photo Royd Bussell.

Ken & Kevins’ catch of the day. Photo Royd Bussell.

Helen crossing to Bellefin Prong before breakfast. Photo Royd Bussell.

Helen& Linda explore the Bellefin mangroves. Photo Royd Bussell.

Have kayak, will paddle. Photo Royd Bussell.

Sunset on Heirisson Prong (Day 5). Photo Royd Bussell.

Judy approaching Heirisson Prong (Day 1). Photo Royd Bussell.

Leader:     Kevin Piper (aka “Pyro”)
Followers:     Judy Blight (radio DJ), Helen Cooksey (chief cake baker), Ken Burton (team spokesperson), Linda Glover (anti-sail campaigner), Royd Bussell (scribe).

Linda, Judy, Ken, Royd, Helen and Kevin at Denham.

The journey north from Perth coincided with a severe weather warning as WA’s first major winter front passed through. Kevin & Ken nearly lost their roofrack on the journey north, but engaged “Heath Robinson” skills to ensure the critical load reached its destination. The team rendezvoused as planned in the Shark Bay Campground, where a 1 star cabin had been booked. Royd& Linda opted for the 1.5 star tent-outside-cabin accommodation option, as a mitigation measure against predicted snoring from un-named team member/s. The local pub provided a good meal and beverages assisting initial team bonding.

Saturday arrived as a cool and overcast but calm day. We drove down to the beach with my fear of the amount of time required to pack the kayaks shared by most others – Kevin of course had his kayak packed in a jiffy. We were on the water ~10.15am with a light easterly breeze and it was good to finally be underway. We could use sails for a short period until the wind died away altogether and we were blessed with stunning calm conditions. It was 20km to the first landing at the tip of Heirisson Prong which we achieved in 3.5hr. We had lunch and saw shovel-nosed rays and small sharks in the shallow waters centimeters from the shore. Ken was quick to cast some tackle in the water and this became a regular habit on the trip. We had seen little marine life on the route over, due to both the prior day’s storm and the cooler July water temperatures. We decided to make use of the excellent conditions and continued on a further 7km to camp on the end of Bellefin Prong. Both “prongs” are narrow north-south oriented peninsulas, comprising mainly sand-dunes. Older, lithified dunesand forms rocky platforms and low cliffs in places. We camped at the back of the beach with only a short kayak haulage required. It was a nice spot and warm conditions. Kevin confirmed our position with the ACRM base lady in Denham. First day teething problems followed ….. numerous sandflies came out to plague us but they preferred the ladies and disappeared after dark. Ken finally managed to work out how to put up his tent and sort out where he had packed the stuff he needed. Royd discovered he had brought the wrong fuel (Shellite) along for his Trangia stove when black fumes emitted from the burner and coated the kit with carbon that seemed to quickly get over everything and stuck. Linda was not impressed. Kevin remedied the disaster by providing a spare bottle of metho thus saving Royd from 5 more days of Linda’s wrath. We enjoyed a period around the campfire and listened to the Dockers footy game on Judy’s radio (nothing like getting away from it all!). Delicious cakes were produced by Judy and Helen (how do they pack it?).

Day 2 commenced with a nice sunrise and a light easterly breeze. We were on the water by 9.30am for the 9km paddle SW to Dirk Hartog Is. The wind turned to the NE and strengthened, such that we were able to use sails (except for anti-sail campaigner Linda who was normally in front anyway). Kevin detoured to score the weather forecast from a lone fisherman before we had early lunch on a pretty beach, we named “half-moon bay”. We then sail-paddled south along low rocky cliffs, enjoying great scenery. The highlight was a massive osprey nest and bird flying above. Our destination was the last big bay on the SE side of the island. The forecast was for ~20kn SW winds later in the day and through the next as a front passed through. We opted for the shelter of low hills at the southern end of the bay. Here, mosquitoes joined the sandflies for an all out onslaught on the ladies. The blokes did not find them that bad. Ken & Royd tried their hand at fishing in the bay. We had some modest success with a flathead and garfish that ended up cooked in lemon juice on the campfire later on. A pod of dolphins out in the bay entertained us in the evening. Wind and rain squalls started overnight.

Day 3 was consistent with the dismal forecast and it was a “no-paddle” day. We had intended to paddle around to South Passage and see Steep Pt etc that day. Instead we hiked overland, initially following a dirt track, then bush-bashed over to the south coast for views of South Passage, Steep Pt and Surf Pt from the dune tops. Dirk Hartog is not as stark as we were led to believe – there is plenty of vegetation, though no large trees. Wirrida (salt pans) occur in places. Dunes dominate the landscape and goats (soon to be poisoned by CALM) have caused considerable erosion of the dunes. A few wildflowers were out, including a nice red myrtle. Back at camp, it was time for more fishing. Helen quickly caught a bream from right near our campsite. After a couple of hours we had 4 bream and Kevin had caught a large flathead and a large bream from the far SE point. The wind stayed with us but it was hot and we could dry our gear out. In the twilight, Ken caught a small shark on a handline that Kevin had set. It was photographed and released. We had a 3 course meal around the campfire that night, followed by Royd’s quiz which Kevin ‘won’. People started going to bed earlier each night, so Ken & Royd were left to solve the world’s problems around the campfire when a rain shower sent us scurrying off as well.

Day 4: Kevin had us up early to ensure we got across east to Bellefin Prong, given the forecast easterlies. We were on the water by 8.05am and 6km into a mild headwind. A pleasant beach awaited us, with shrubs growing right down to the water’s edge. After breakfast, some of us clambered up the hill for the view. We spied mangroves to the south and elected to detour on a drift-paddle with the now northerly breeze pushing us lazily along. We saw lots of marine life in the shallow, clear waters – rays, sharks, bream, mullet and occasional turtles. We reached the end of a prominent point and could see out to South Passage. After a quick break, we paddled back up the Prong for 14km to our campsite in a small bay. Flat rocky ledges bound the bay and formed a platform for fishing. Royd caught a small flathead, then later hooked a shark on a very light line and inevitably lost all tackle after 10mins of playing the beast… Ken caught a bream. The fish ended up in the frypan over the fire later on as Ken continued re-counting his life story and dramas for our entertainment. A new moon lit the sky across the water on a calm and pleasant evening.

Day 5: After a cold and dewey night with brilliant stars, we had a leisurely start to the morning. We were on the water by 9.15am with a stiff, cool ESE wind allowing us to sail up the prong to our former campsite near the tip. We had a morning tea break and searched for Ken’s lost paraphernalia from the earlier visit. Ken tended to leave gear scattered around various strategic parts of Shark Bay…. We continued on and rounded the prong before paddling directly into a 12kn ESE headwind 6.5km over to Heirisson Prong. Kevin had us adopt a group diamond formation, in order to maintain communication and group strength in the event of the conditions worsening. This worked well and we practiced swapping positions in the formation. We reached our destination in one hour. We selected a camp just south of the prong tip and had most of the arvo to set up camp, lunch, then leisure in sunny, sheltered conditions. Kevin checked-in with ACRM in Denham and received a weather forecast of 13kn ENE headwinds for the following morning, declining only in the afternoon. Fishing yielded little catch with Helen landing one bream. The final meal for many was dehy. Ken’s life stories continued before we retired to bed.

Day 6: We awoke to a fine day and a light E breeze. We packed up for the final time and talked through scenarios should conditions turn rough for the 20km return crossing to Denham. We were on the water at 9.30am and after a warm-up, we started in a group diamond formation again with Judy leading us into an initial 12kn headwind. This soon lightened off to <8kn and decreased further. We paddled in loose formation and had breaks every 5km. Kevin taught us the phonetic alphabet en route and we played eye-spy to wile away the kms. 8km out from Denham, we entered into a zone of strengthening SW breeze and were able to put sails up for a lucky push home. It was great to reach land again after 3.5hrs sitting in kayaks and to safely conclude the trip. After unpacking gear into vehicles, we returned to the Shark Bay Campground via the bakery. The local pub provided us with a pleasant last supper together before we parted ways the following day.

We completed 105km of paddling overall and were quite lucky with the winds, apart from the one day the front came through. For me, the trip highlights were the great group camaraderie and the fact that we had this massive wilderness area to ourselves, with only a couple of fisherman seen in the distance most days. A special thank-you to Kevin for organising and for leading the trip with a balanced style that blended flexibility with safety. The voluntary ACRM base support in Denham was much appreciated.

Jane Perkins

The entire paddle group. Launch from Lucky Bay. Photo Rod Coogan.

Thistle Cove from the track to Lucky Bay. Photo Bob Bright.

Martin, Wolfgang and Pel, en route to Thistle Cove from Hellfire. Photo Rod Coogan.

Camping at Lucky Bay – Martin, Bob, Rod, Jane and Pel in conference over gear. Photo Julie Turner.

Jane and Martin flying a kite – honestly! Photo Bob Bright.

Wolfgang paddles his Greenland kayak around the point from Le Grand Beach. Photo Rod Coogan.

Rabbit Rock. Photo Rod Coogan.

Helen at Lucky Bay, with Phantom Cave behind. Photo Martin Burgoyne.

We left Martin’s house at about 7:45am having a lengthy discussion about paddle lengths then settled into a comfortable silence. After driving for 30 minutes, circumstances required that we take a little break for a short discussion on the method of securing boats to trailers.

On Saturday those that had arrived early went for an exploratory paddle in Lucky Bay – beautiful fine white sand that squeaked under your feet, between granite boulder headlands, with granite islands dotted across the horizon. We poked our nose outside the bay to feel the force of the Southern Ocean before heading back to camp.

Wolfgang’s Greenland kayaks attracted plenty of interest.  Photo Julie Turner.

The afternoon was spent exploring our surroundings (the coastal walk offered stunning views and variable terrain), before waiting for the rest of the group to arrive.   The remaining tents were put up in the dark – 2 McMansion tents, 5 regular tents, and 3 campervans.

On Sunday the paddle was from picturesque Hellfire Bay around to Lucky Bay. Given the weather forecast was unfavourable for the remainder of the week we got a good turnout for what looked like possibly our only paddle for the week. We experienced quite “clapotis” seas with around 1m vertical waves in the open ocean. We were all ready for the pleasant break when we got to Thistle Cove. The decision was taken to follow the coast around inside the cove and some of us played in the shore waves.  Paul and I survived a larger than usual bongo wave that got the adrenaline running. I then caught a larger wave in the dump zone at 45 degrees and was duly capsized, and seeing a second wave about to break on me quickly separated from my boat. On reaching the beach I found I was missing my forward hatch cover. Bob followed me in while the others stayed outside the breaker line – no Bob, I was not worried about my hat , it was the hatch cover I was looking for. Bob radioed the group to report the problem, only to be met by silence. Shouting from the rocks was a more successful communication method and it was decided that Bob and I would carry our boats up a rather large boulder to be collected by car, while the remainder of the group paddled for home and then collected the cars.

Meal times at camp were always interesting as different culinary traditions were revealed. Bob believes any meal is enhanced by the addition of chilli sauce and pepper. Al opens 2 cans and combines the contents before heating. Paul learnt that a full packet of pasta is a LOT of food. Those visiting from campervan land brought exotic dips that require refridgeration. Helen makes an awesome fruit cake, reserved for those that have finished their dinner. Jane used vegetables and a knife (slight difficulties were encountered because the local kangaroos have learnt to use zippers and like lettuce and tomatoes). The variety of stoves were compared and then underwent non-rigorous scientific testing  – the jetboil was only slightly faster than Bob’s gas stove (yet Bob was heating about 4 times as much water).

Monday morning saw the creation of a new hatch cover, very sporty blue tarp with a yellow cross – thanks guys it worked well, only letting a couple of cups of water in over the next few days despite some harsh treatment.  The winds were less than forecast and we put in at our local beach and paddled around to Rossiter Bay – with two beach landings to practice our skills. This was the scene of a second popped hatch – this time only a pair of sunglasses was lost. Duct tape was duly added as a tertiary securing devise and on we paddled with a nice tail wind.

Jane’s new cover.  Photo Rod Coogan.

In the afternoon I walked to Thistle Cove for some purposeful beach-combing; no hatch cover but an enjoyable coastal walk all the same.

Wind got the better of paddling on Tuesday, so we took advantage of it and used Martin’s kites – we all had longer arms as a result, useful for all those beach launches. Who can forget the “WhooooHooo” that Helen shouted as she felt the force of the wind in that kite. We then formed a convoy and drove along the beach to Esperance – where good coffee was enjoyed.

The winds had been too strong for Mary to paddle so Laurie and Mary left the group to find some inland water to paddle on. Bob had to return to Perth early as well, so our group was decreased for the remainder of the week.

Having watched the local wind patterns at Le Grand beach (yes those boulders do create their own local wind pattern) it was decided that Le Grand Beach was a suitable launch spot for the next morning. We paddled out with a tail wind exploring the small coves, conscious we may need this knowledge on the return trip.  Around the headland we had a breather in a rock bay before rounding another 2 headlands. This brought us to yet another pristine white beach – this one with the unique rabbit shaped rock at one end. There was debate as to whether we should continue to Hellfire bay or return to the cars, and it was decided to wait until we got to the headland to see how the wind was developing before we decided. Once we were there it was clear that continuing on was unwise so we turned back to Cape Le Grand. After rounding the last headland we had a full headwind and it was tough paddling. We took a second break on the small beach that we had explored on the way out. A tough, short, but enjoyable paddle. Kites were the appropriate toy for the afternoon.

Thursday it was decided to do some training exercises in Lucky Bay. There was a very friendly shore break in a small cove on the far side of the bay. Wolfgang did his first low brace on breaking surf – and Rod reports that it was textbook perfect! There was a dolphin feeding frenzy occurring at a small opening to the bay, which was fascinating to watch. Once we were near the campsite a number of people practiced their rolls. By this time we were long stay-ers in the camping area, so much so that the local kangaroo couple ignored us totally as they had a lunchtime romp.

With strong winds forecast yet again it was decided to pack up early and use the weekend in Perth to clean all that sand out of our boats and make some repairs.

Martin did an excellent job in planning the week, and which was enjoyed by all. Thanks also to Bob and Rod who provided instructor support along the way. Last but not least thanks to those whose company made the week so enjoyable.

Jane Perkins

I was looking forward to 3 months long service leave, but being away from Perth and my kayak just felt wrong. I started hunting for kayak trips that fitted in with other activities I had planned. Greece appealed, but the travel times became prohibitive. Then I found a company in South Wales running a 5 day trip that slotted in perfectly. A few emails later and I was confident that the boats would be reasonable and I would be allowed to push my limits – I was not disappointed.http://www.preseliventure.co.uk/activities/sea_kayaking.shtml http://www.preseliventure.co.uk/adventurezone/sea_kayaking_breaks.shtml

Lunch break on a small pebble beach beneath the towering cliffs. Photo Jane Perkins.

At lunch the boats were brought onto the pebble beach. The flat seas and rock outcrops we paddled through can be seen in the background. Photo Jane Perkins.

The tide is on the way out as we prepare to launch. Lime kilns can be seen on the bank on the left. Photo Jane Perkins.

The geography of the bitches tidal formation.
Image from http://www.flickr.com/photos/earthwatcher/2925646467/ then annotated.

On arriving at Haverfordwest train station in Pembrokshire, I was met and taken to Preseli Venture’s facility on the coast to the north. That afternoon we selected our gear (Dagger Charleston boats,  farmer Jon wetsuits, cags, helmets, PFD, booties, paddles) and did an introduction paddle in protected water at “the needle”.

The coast around here was cliffs down to the water’s edge, with inlets that allowed access. Along the cliffs there were various rock formations and we were encouraged to test what the smallest gap that could be navigated (with the assistance of the small swell). I started exploring some caves – ignoring the warning that the Irish ferry would cause a significant wake. Needless to say I was deep in a cave (almost dark) when a significant set of waves came due to the ferry. I back paddled like never before and survived (and I knew we had a good guide when I turned around and saw Jon’s boat just inside the cave – at shoulder height on the next wave). From that point on I explored caves in reverse – improving my reversing skills significantly during the week.

As the week progressed we were encouraged to find smaller gaps to negotiate, and Jon was happy to instruct us on different draw strokes if we wanted. On another day fishing lines were provided for those that wanted to try kayak fishing – Jon was the only one who was successful.

Over the course of the week we covered the St Davids coast from Cardigan to Newgale as a variety of day paddles. It was easy paddling with the wind or tide helping us along most of the time – and a pub at the takeout point most days.

On the second last day the tide and wind was favourable to do the stretch of coast near Ramsey Island, Including the feature known as “the Bitches” or “witches” depending on the tide direction – high tide was to be around 3 pm and be about 6m, meaning peak flow was going to be around 1 pm but not too strong. We were joined by the owner of Preseli Venture, Nick, and put in at Whitesands bay.  We paddled across to Black Island, learning/practicing ferry-gliding as we went. I found I needed to aim at least 30 degrees north of the island in order to paddle in a line to the island – and we were not at peak tide yet! We estimated that our speed due to the tide over the next section was 8km/hr. Having circumnavigated this small island we headed south, taking care to stay sufficiently east to ensure we went to the east of Ramsey Island (Nick has had a group split in 2 as they reached Ramsey Island and the current split around the island).

As we approached the southern end of Ramsey Island we stayed close to the coast (we did not want to go over the bitches) and one at a time went through a natural cave/tunnel. Once positioned in the tunnel mouth you were quickly swept through, and needed to make a hard right at the end to the still water of a bay. Once assembled in the bay we ventured back past the tunnel and got our first good look at the bitches. The guides demonstrated the crossing of the first current and taking refuge in the eddy between the currents. We then tried it ourselves and I was promptly chewed up and spat out into the freezing water, only to float downstream to Jon who was playing catch. I demonstrated the Australian method of assisted rescue, but Nick insisted I use the English method – I did not like lying between two boats, and then sliding up and into my boat. After that I successfully negotiated the first eddy a couple of times before stopping for lunch. The plan at the bitches was to head upstream with around a 10 degree angle towards the current coming through the rocks. The reality was as soon as the front of the boat got into the water current it swung the boat around and you headed downstream at a rapid rate, and paddled across to the next eddy. We spent some time playing back and forth across the 4 currents, and watching the water change character with the tide. Across at the mainland we could see a fishing boat making almost no progress against the tide, despite its best efforts. As the tide slaked off it was time for us to continue to the takeout point.

On the last day, we had become quite adventurous with our testing of small gaps – a little too adventurous on one occasion, and one of the boats has some serious gouges in it. The group all assisted in the rescue with swimmer, paddle and boat being separated. The Australian method of pulling up across 2 rafted boats was used to great effect, before we got towed back to where the boat and paddle had been collected to.
In all it was great to paddle in different conditions, and I would highly recommend it – the bitches was an extra bonus.  I learnt a lot of boat manoeuvring skills, unfortunately I lost most of them over the next 2 months of no paddling.

Jo Foley

I was looking forward to the Rotto trip and wasn’t disappointed.  There were 11 of us staying at the wonderful house at Kingston overlooking the ocean – Jim and Di Bramley, Rod and Carolyn Coogan, Steve Foreman, Judy Blight, Helen Cooksey, Pel Turner, John Radovich, Dave Oakley and myself. Rob McCracken stayed at the Lodge and had a romantic weekend away with his girlfriend Peta.

Rod, John, Rob, Dave, Jim and Steve left Beach Street Groyne about 8.30am on the Friday morning in what I was told to be quite an uneventful paddle over with some headwind. The swell and wind were not as high as had been predicted. The rest of us caught the ferry over and we all met up at a café on the beach for some lunch before paddling over to the house. I am told that Rob listened to Metallica on his Ipod on the paddle to Rottnest and to Beethoven on the paddle back to Perth – what a contrast!

Although not the official start of schoolies there were several “party” boats of leavers with their music blaring and Judy paddled past one of those that was moored near the house to ask how long they were staying there.  As she paddled off someone threw a tennis ball and it hit Judy in the head. Judy, as you could imagine, raced back over to the boat and gave them a right dressing down.  I had visions that we would find our kayaks vandalised the next day or missing as they had been set out to sea by the disgruntled schoolies but fortunately they moved on before nightfall!

Whilst having a wine or 2 Rod was discussing emergency radio call procedure with a few of the paddlers. Helen thought she would get some practise and did a distress call only to be reminded (very quickly) that she was actually on air. She quickly got back on the radio to let anyone know that was listening that was just a test call!

That evening we cooked up a BBQ, salad and Pel made his yummy Bean Salad & Di cooked up some damper which went down a treat.

The snorers (no names mentioned – Pel and Steve) were made to sleep on the verandah and we thought it was them we could hear that night however unbeknown to us another snorer  (initials JR) was in the lounge room – right next to the girls’ room. Helen had the right idea with her ear plugs in and didn’t hear a thing.

We woke up to a beautiful morning on Saturday.  A funny thing happened as Judy was standing outside the kitchen – a bird fell on her head and landed on the floor.  It was still lying there 5 minutes after so we were a bit worried about it but it must have just been stunned and eventually flew off.  Judy, what is this attraction your head – tennis balls and birds?

After breakfast we got set to head off on our clockwise circumnavigation of the island. Rod being the trip leader was giving us a reminder of signals for when we were out on the water and Judy and he nearly came to blows over what was the correct “come to me” signal.  Hence Pel named them Punch and Judy.  Conditions could not have been better with small 1-1.5m swell and light SE winds which turned SW later in the day. The water was stunningly clear and blue. Not long into the paddle Judy spotted a turtle – well so she says but as she was the only one to see it, it can’t be confirmed.  It may have been a hallucination from the earlier concussion with the bird.

The most challenging part of the paddle was around West End but even for the less experienced of us it was not really a problem. After rounding West End we paddled in to the first bay and there were half a dozen seals resting in the water with their flippers sticking up above the water sunning themselves.  Then we paddled on to the next bay we saw some fins – was it a shark, dolphin or whale?  We decided it was either a large dolphin or a small whale.  In fact there were a few of them to greet us as we paddled in to Eagle Bay where we had a lovely relaxing lunchbreak.  While there some inquisitive lizards were trying to partake of Rod’s lunch. From Eagle Bay we had the wind behind us and those with sails took the opportunity of using them. Jim pulled out a kite and after a lot of getting the string caught around his boat managed to get the kite up flying and used it like a sail to assist him along.  Those of use without the sails just had to paddle harder and keep up with muscle power. On passing Catherine Bay we heard someone calling out.  It was Rob who had taken the day off to spend with Peta and they had been bussing around the island getting off at many of the beautiful bays along the way.

Just out from Thomson’s bay there is normally a nice surf break (which my hubby says is called Transits) so Jim, Rod, Dave and I headed over to do some surfing.  It was not breaking consistently but enough to have some fun.  I was trying to learn from the masters but have a long way to go!

While we were out on the water – Di and Carolyn had cycled out to West End taking photos hoping to catch a nice shot or 2 to sketch or paint. They had rather sore butts by the end of the day but thoroughly enjoyed themselves.

Rob and Peta joined us late in the arvo and we settled on the verandah for some sundowner drinkies.  Did I mention the view from that verandah – ah the serenity! Another BBQ that evening and some more of Pel’s famous bean salad.  Di surprised us with some yummy scones for dessert.

That evening Steve and Dave played Tumbledown to settle a disagreement regarding the navigation over to Rottnest – I believe Dave won and had pleasure drawing the pine trees on the block.

I took the opportunity to bring out my new log book to see if I could work on Rod for a few sign-offs in my assessment record toward the new Intermediate Skills level (what is the intermediate skills again!?!?!?).  Rod however is a hard taskmaster and only signed me off on one item – paddling at a speed of 5km for 90 mins.

During our stay we had a rogue quokka that kept sneaking in through our barricades. People were sweeping it out (gently) with a broom and scooping it out with a paddle – it always found a way to get back in again – I wonder if it is called Houdini?

We woke up to another perfect day on Sunday.  It was decided that we would aim to leave about 10am to let the SE wind die off a bit. We packed our gear in to our kayaks and Carolyn and Di very kindly cleaned up in the house.  You girls are stars – I hope Rod and Jim know how lucky they are. While we were waiting Rado decided to do some artwork on Rod and Jim’s faces with his multi coloured Zinc.  Jim ended up with makeup looking like the lead singer of KISS – and paddled back to Cottesloe like that.  Rado could get a job doing kids face painting at festivals – he was so good at it.

Rob paddled around and met us about 10am and the girls waved the 12 of us paddlers off as we set off into the wild blue yonder.  Actually it was beautiful conditions for most of the paddle back to Cottesloe with again only 1-1.5m swell and light SE winds which turned SW mid paddle.  I couldn’t believe how clear the Perth coastline was the whole paddle back. It made you feel closer to the shore than you actually were.  We were meant to be heading slightly over to Freo way so that when the SW winds came in we could ride the swell back in to Cottesloe.  Not sure quite where we went wrong but the last part of the paddle was spent with the wind& waves side on – that’s what happens when you listen to the boys! We took about 3hrs to get back which was great timing.

Thanks to all for the great time and laughs had over the 3 days. It was great to get to know you all better.

Ready to paddle back – photo Helen Cooksey

Rob, Steve, Rod, Jim, Dave & Rado before the paddle over – photo John Radovich

 Thompson’s Bay from the house – photo Helen Cooksey

Steve on the water – photo John Radovich

Seals at the west end – photo Helen Cooksey

Pel at lunch break – photo Helen Cooksey

Rod over reef on the north side – photo John Radovich

Pel, Helen, Jim and Dave on the way back to the mainland – photo John Radovich

For more pictures, see the Photo Gallery

By Rod Coogan

The week did not start well!

The weather forecast leading up to Sunday, 19 April was not looking good. The predicted conditions were near calm. I now regard calm as a four-letter word. I was wishing for 15-20 knot winds and come 6.00am Sunday morning I was still hopeful … perhaps a miracle.
The day was a dreaded 4 knot breeze, glassy seas and clear blue skies- so much for my miracle!

I arrived at the west Cape Peron Car Park at 7.50am, certainly time enough to beat others there.

It looked like the Sea Kayak Club had booked the entire car park, only one solitary bay remaining and it was mine. On the other side of things what a fabulous turnout – 17 paddlers. It was very pleasing to see such a widespread of experience present.

The prelaunch brief was a little longer than usual and did include on-water signals. In particular whistle blasts, 1-for ‘stop’, 2- for ‘Go’ and 5-blasts for a genuine emergency. The latter would regretfully play a part later during the morning.

When we did hit the water it was in anything but rough conditions, however, there was a very nice half metre swell running and everyone was in fine stroking form.

The paddle armada was divided into three groups of 5 paddlers with Rado, the roving photographer, and myself commuting between groups. Group leaders swapped positions at the end of every leg to give all the opportunity of leadership and on-water communication. Effective communication was a challenge even in these near ideal conditions.

The first destination was a 2.5km leg to Collie Head at Garden Island. The armada paddled in a 3-group arrowhead formation. A total of 17 sea kayaks made an impressive sight, all 3 sub-groups held their formation well. From Collie Head next stop was South West Point, paddling in near breaking and surging waves as close to the cliff line as individuals felt was safe for them.

At South West Point the paddle groups turned north toward the beach area near South Hill, paddling just outside of glassy green breaking rollers.

Close to South Hill we decided to land. Each paddle group would organize its own surf landing. All was proceeding in a usual manner leaving just Rado and myself to land. We both approached the beach and about to proceed further when we heard one whistle blast (stop), a second blast (go) immediately followed by 3,4 &5 blasts. Something was wrong!

We immediately landed to be told Mark had dislocated his shoulder whilst landing. Grabbing First Aid kits, VHF Radio and mobile phone, we ran along the beach to find Mark already being attended to. He was in good spirits with some discomfort and I suspect perhaps annoyed with himself.

At times no matter what care you take, some things just happen. When they do it’s usually where prior training and practice comes into play. That was to very case in this situation.
Marks’ condition was assessed, he was assisted to a comfortable position with his arm supported.

It was now onto the radio to call up assistance from Rockingham Sea Rescue, who arranged for a Ranger from Garden Island to evacuate Mark by 4WD to the mainland. President Judy accompanied Mark to a waiting ambulance.

Back on the beach Group members were preparing Mark and Judy’s boats for towing to our launch site, approximately a 9km paddle. Fortunately a lone fisherman nearby was monitoring his radio, recognized our predicament and assisted taking Mark’s heavy boat on board. Our thanks go that fisherman. Brighty towed Judy’s boat, well done Bob.

The paddle was aborted and all paddlers returned safely to the launch site. Some of us found our way to Café Jane’s home for a ‘feet-up’ late-ish lunch. Thank you Jane.

As Co-ordinator for the day I would like to thank all paddlers for the roles they played.

There is no doubt that the Club’s training days are of huge benefit.

The friendly fisherman with Mark’s kayak.– photo John Radovich

• Always have a rock solid method to pin point your location.
• Always carry spare batteries for your VHF Radio, GPS and other equipment.
• Practice ‘on-water’ communication in differing conditions. It’s harder than you think!
• Gradually increase your exposure to windier, rougher conditions.
• One day you will be caught out!
• If Mark’s in pain, he smiles. If it really hurts he’d probably laugh his head off!
• Carry a chinograph pencil in your PFD to write notes on the deck of your boat.
• Wash them off later.
• Expect the unexpected.
• Be confident and practice using your VHF radio.
• Remember- when using your VHF, everyone is listening in. In our situation it was a friendly fisherman.
• No matter where you paddle always carry a First Aid Kit and spare warm dry clothes.
• An anonymous paddler launched, paddled up the face of a small shore break swell, didn’t make it to the top, slid backwards and ended up on the beach where he started …what a wasted effort!!
• Attend every training session- it will make you a better paddler and help you to save someone else.
• LISTEN: it’s an acquired skill.

The pre-launch brief – photo John Radovich

The day’s first raft up at Collie Head – photo John Radovich

Graham Lee in surging waves at Collie Head. – photo John Radovich

Mark resting and waiting for evacuation. – photo John Radovich

Comms Team atop the highest sand hill (Rod, Steve & Jane). – photo John Radovich

Mark being attended by Martin and Jo. – photo John Radovich